Cotopaxi and Quilotoa

(Photo: Mama Hilda´s Hostal)

After our leisurely, tropical time in the Galapagos and a day in football crazy Quito we thought we´d head out into the Andes for a a change of scenery and more active days.

On Saturday we rode on mountain bikes down the side of Cotopaxi volcano. Some of it was challenging given the wind, sleet and 4,800 m of altitude, but it was quite beautiful. I (Lesley) only managed to fall off the bike once (quite an achievement I thought!).

We were then dropped by the side of the road with our backpacks in order to try and hail a bus to the next destination, Latacunga. Latacunga is the gateway into the Quilotoa circuit, a spectacular Andean region with small indigenous villages and a stunning lake in the middle of the Quilotoa crater (photos below). From Latacunga we took a very bumpy and dusty bus ride to the village of Chugchilán and Casa Mama Hilda. Rick was about ready to leave South America for good after 4 or 5 hours in the dust, heat and market crowds on the bus, but Mama Hilda´s hostal was a real haven of relaxation with beautiful views and a relaxing and homely environment. After a cup of coffee and a rest in the hammocks we were back to enjoying our adventure again!

From Chugchilán we walked 5 1/2 hours to Quilotoa (slightly off the usual track but we got there in the end) which at 3100 to 3850m above sea level was a struggle for both of us at times, despite all that extra time we´d put in in the gym before leaving. The bus back left early and left us stranded... but rather than stay the night in one of the basic and cold hostels we negotiated a ride back to our cosy hostel and Mama Hilda´s cooking! The wood-burning stove in our room was very welcome that evening. The following day we watched Ecuador being beaten by Germany and then set off on a ´short´walk to the Cloud Forest above Chugchilán. 4 hours later we had missed the England match and several of the short cuts back... but were greeted with corn fresh from the garden and a village cheese to help ease our weary feet. More relaxing in the hammocks followed.

In order to avoid a 4am departure on the bus back, Mama Hilda negotiated for us to get a ride at a far more civilised time, but what we hadn´t quite realised was that this would be even more dusty than the bus and that we would be driven by an unlicensed 14 year old! We got there anyway, and made our way back to Latacunga in the back of a pick up and then on to Riobamba by a much less dusty bus.