Beach bums in Iquique

Coming into Iquique was like coming back into a more recognisable Chile - paved roads, neon, shopping malls and advertising everywhere - even lighting up the side of the oversize sand dunes which overshadow the city.

We're in a hostel 1 block from the beach, Iquique is a big destination for surfers this time of year, so we are pretty much the only people in the hostel without sand in our hair. It's far too cold for swimming in the sea without a wetsuit and although we're still on the edges of the desert it has been pretty overcast since we've been here. Sitting on the beachfront with a beer in hand watching the big waves was a pretty cool way to spend a few hours though.

We spent several hours yesterday (26th July) wandering around a deserted (nitrate) mining town - Humberstone. Now designated a Unesco world heritage site it was a photographer´s delight, so Rick should have some cool photos once we find a fast enough internet connection. It was a pretty creepy place full of rust, dust and broken machinery, but also clean and well preserved (that´s the desert air for you) with just enough information available to find your way around the old town. A very different cultural experience, but an important part of the history of Northern Chile.

Had dinner last night in a not-so-budget restaurant (Lonely Planet has been a bit off with some of its recommendations) where we discovered one of the waiters had been at the same fat boy slim concert as us in Brixton last year...he was the most camp Chilean we´ve come across, and very keen to have a chat about all things London (rather than work, which didn´t make us too popular with the other staff).

Tonight we start heading south to La Serena, hoping for a nice comfortable bus for the 16 hour journey!